hi I’m Mike Phillips Phillips hot rods
and customs in downtown Pennsylvania today we’re going to do a quick video on
how to make a paper pattern what I have here is a handmade fender for a custom
1936 Ford cab over engine customer mine is building his own truck is making the
Dooley so we made defenders forum with all the
original styling cues of 1956 for defender only the inside tire clearance
is 21 inches so it can fit his two tires so we’re going to make a pattern of this
fender that I already created in order to make an accurate duplicate for the
other side of the truck the most important things you need in
order to make a paper pattern is just standard body shot masking paper invite
us by the role eastwood sells it we’re also going to use the sheet metal
layout set this is everything you need in order to make an accurate paper
pattern you can also buy these magnets from
Eastwood that’s what you’re going to use to hold your your paper on some other
tools are going to need is a carpenter’s pencil some fine line tape some scissors
and a radius gauge so we’re going to make a pattern of this side of the
fender this fender is made out of four different pieces so I need to make this
exact same panels the other fender matches we’re going to make this panel
from here just past the middle of our radius and down to cover that whole area
of one piece of paper will hold it in place with a couple of
pilots adjust the paper so you have plenty of paper on both sides and that
you don’t end up falling short somewhere and once the papers on will trim off all
the all the access with a razor blade so it’s not fighting us it’s really
important that your paper pattern is extremely accurate the panel that you
create will never be any better than the paper pattern so it’s important that you
take your time make sure all your lines in the right spot all your marks are in the right spot if
you do the paper wrong you’re going to end up doing the metal wrong so you want to evaluate your shape and
find what area is going to have all the strength and stretch you can tell by the way the paper
wrinkles try to find the spot where it lays pretty flat if that section to have no wrinkles in
the paper so make sure the papers pulled nice and tight it’s not bunched up get all the wrinkles
out of it and start getting some magnets in those
spots to hold it down pull the paper tight no wrinkles now you can see that the
paper lady is fairly flat here it’s not trying to bunch up that tells
us that there’s not a whole lot of shape right here as a little little curve
downward but there isn’t any shape to its side the side this side of the
fenders fairly flat it’s where the running board attaches to see on this
side the papers trying to wrinkle up so i’ll show you what you need to do there
in a moment in order to get that too late black so
important neat little tool you can make these take a carpenter’s pencil and
carve the side of it off to expose the lid using a pencil like this works
really good for making patterns because you can find the edges of your metal so that’s the edge of our paddle just
always extra papers are fighting this i’m going to cut this a little shorter – all the extra off have a large amount
of excessive paper hanging off while you’re trying to make the pattern ends
up putting extra wrinkles into the the panel that are necessary and it can
cause some confusion when you’re making your panel so don’t have any extra paper
that you don’t need let’s find this bottom edge you pull the
paper down it’s made the wrinkles and as you can
we’ll leave a little bit of extra paper here but just a little bit all the shape on this panel is in this
race right here so we’ll find the spots that lie flat by themselves so I want to
get all this extra material I can pull us a little tighter just by
moving these magnets going to work all the wrinkles out of the paper using more
magnets to hold down you can see right here is where all the extra material all
the extra paper starts to wrinkle up it stops right in this area I’m going to
pin that down with some more magnets now i know from this from this area over
is where the paper starts to bunch up that’s what the panel starts to curve
paper and metal do the exact same thing if paper won’t lie flat wants to bunch
up the metal is going to try to find out if you try to turn around the same
corner that’s what we need to figure out is how
to get this paper to lie flat in the middle here we can pull this around
pretty smooth without you not too many wrinkles in this area is
ranked a little bit if you notice when we first started the fender curves down
and under in this corner and the paper showing that by the extra material that
wants to bunch up here that means that the metal there has to
shrink same thing here the fender comes up this way it also
comes around this way and there’s a separate radius that blends into the
side all these radius is all come together in
this one quarter paper pattern is going to tell us exactly how much shrink and
where to put it in the exact location in order to get this paper the lie flat
here we’re going to have to cut slits into it let it fold underneath itself
and then pin it down with a magnet to take your razor blade and find the area
where the paper starts to bunch up which is right about in here that’s where the radius starts so we’re
going to cut the paper from their out until slip in order to get this delay
this area needs some shrink as well in this area now you see before that
wouldn’t lie flat now that the papers allowed to overlap
itself it will lay flat now without any wrinkles but it’s overlapped that
indicates this area needs to have the metal shrunk can also simulate a little
shrink by stretching radius up on the far side of that corner there now this lays down now and we have to
put some more cuts in the paper up here in order to get this delay in this area
right here is fighting me a little bit this is too wide we actually need to do
one in the middle there in order to get that to lay down you need lots of magnets ok now we have the slits in the paper
this whole entire corner lays nice and smooth without being rippled are bunched
up if it’s a small area you can get away with not cutting the paper and just
creating a fold and tucking it on itself and pinning it down with a magnet now we have this side pinned down
ninety-nine percent of the wrinkles are out of it there’s still a couple of wrinkles here
that indicates that this area we need to be pumped up a little bit with a little
bit of stretch after this corner shrunk around the defender comes down and turns
into this area so we need to do a lot of shrinking this air to get this extra
material out as well to start pulling the paper in that direction start painting it with a few more
magnets and then we have to cut this paper open the shrink starts about this
areas where the paper starts to bunch up now we have that strip cut it that section weighs nice the corner like this is why it’s
important that we don’t have all that extra paper hanging off the bottom
because all that extra paper would be fighting us trying to get this corner to
lay in I tend to just leave about an extra inch
of paper in case I need to shift the pattern a little bit after I start
making it have a little material there to do so without having to start over alright so we have that corner pull down
tight now as well now we have the paper laying flat with no wrinkles fitting
exactly how we’re going to make the metal fit we need to find the start and
stop points of all the radius and all the highlight lines the easiest way to find that with a
radius cage so first we’ll work on this this radius
right here so I figure out what the radius is this is almost a three inch
radius and easiest way to find where the radio starts and stops it put a radius
cage on here so it fits nice and tight and if you slide the gauge just until it starts to come off the
panel see the air gap to find the gauge it fits and slide it just until it
starts to come off and create an air gap go just back until it fits again right there’s the corner where the radius
starts to do the same thing to find where the radius ends slide the gauge over until it starts to
pull off the panel go back just to fits again that’s where the radius ends so go around the whole radius take those
marks yeah you can map out this corner fairly
accurately and know exactly where and how deep you need to shrink the metal once you start getting higher up on this
panel that three inch radius blends into a four and then continues to blend out
into a 12 so once you start getting the area where
the three doesn’t fit anymore move up to the next size this panel quickly goes
from a 3-2 a four to A six and eventually turns to a 12 okay so we just mapped out the radius of
this corner in this quarter at this point that’s as deep as I would want to shrink
i will shrink right to that line now the panel does have a little more shape
after that I would actually stretch that area up as opposed to trying to shrink
the whole thing down once we have that line on there you can
map it all out and rolled on this outside beginning . it’s going to end up
being more of a trim line then the a bending it and bending information this corner shrinks down around i’m also going to draw a line on here
that indicates how deep the shape goes on this corner so it makes it easier to
blend all these different radiuses all together in this one location so that
they flow all these different radiuses all have to flow together and work
together joining at the same spot without looking
harsh or abrupt or having a flat spots so we have the shape of the fender this
way coming around we have this radius that
comes down the fender papers around this corner and comes this way at the same time at this blends in and
goes down this way and the shape of the fender this way comes around so all this is happening this one corner
this corner is really what makes this this panel work properly and look
correct and it’s not done right it won’t look
like a part that was original it will look after market the key point
on making any aftermarket custom parts you want to make it look like it’s
supposed to be there and then I was meant for that truck it’s
not a universal part that fits 10 different vehicles it looks . correct all the lines are
right all the shapes are right all the curves
are right all right so that pretty much does it for the actual paper pattern
itself now we need to take all this information
that we made on this pattern this is our one hundred percent accurate
roadmap to making this out of metal all these lines are in the right spot
you follow the road map and your panel that perfect first try so let’s get this lay down piece of
sheet metal I’ll show you how to transfer these lines to a piece of metal
underneath it accurately and map all that information out onto a blank let’s have your paper pattern magnetize
down here to fresh blank all the wrinkles out all the folds are back flat
how they would be before you cut them the first thing I usually do is just
take a Sharpie trace the outside we know we already left a little extra material
if I made the paper pattern real accurate I’ll put notes on here add an inch here
at an inch there for extra material but we left it we left the paper pattern large already
this part does not need to be accurate by any means you can trace the outside
we can rough cut that off when the time comes to trim this accurately we will
describe it and hand sheer the trim line for weld now we need to get all this information
through the paper and on to our blank the way I like to do it the best
especially with steel quickest and easiest way to do it is take the
automatic center punch that comes in the layout kit put on your line start
transferring these little dimples you can tune the center punch down by
adjusting the spring on the end so it doesn’t like a large gouge in your panel
and the tight corners put them a lot closer together and see by this pattern
how this radius tightens up in this corner it comes around and tightens up
narrower i’m also going to transfer the line so I
know where the actual edge of the panel is I know what’s just extra material
hanging off so the nice thing about using the center
punches we made this pattern from the fender I
made for the passenger side of the truck we’re now making the driver side rear
fender we actually have to have this pattern
upside down in order to make the other side of the truck well since my lines are on this side if
I transferred the paper over and then mapped it out in the middle i wouldn’t
be able to see the lines i drawn here by using the center punch the little dimple
will show through to the opposite side of the steel panel and then we can find
those marks easily so we have everything mapped out we can go ahead and take the pattern off
now you’ll see all these marks so we’re going to flip this over we’ll
be able to see these little tiny dimples on the other side and follow them now we have the panel flipped upside
down you can see the center punch marks left a small dimple mark on the back of
the panel we’re going to follow those marks with a
roll of fine line tape I like using a thin spine line tape you
can buy it at least would you get down look at it with the light just right you
can see your marks and you can lay your tape down right across all your marks
and follow it right around the corner the center of our radius we also mapped
out the bottom we mapped out the back edge just so we
know where it is that’s the easiest way I’ve found to
transfer marks not only through the paper onto my blank using that center
punch also makes it possible to see the marks on the opposite side of the panel
which really helps when you’re making in an opposite panel as opposed to
duplicate an existing panel the reason i like using that that tape
is the edge of that tape is nice and easy to follow with a scribe the scribe
comes in the East would lay out kit you put the scribe on the edge of that
tape and it’s fairly easy to just lock it in the edge of that tape and run your
scribe along their accurately and nice perfect line I know the radius seems to be pumped up
a little bit here a little bit of extra stretch now we can safely take this tape
off and the scribe will be will be there as well so we’ll trim this off the power shears we use the PowerShares because we know
we have an extra inch of material does not need to do that accurate we got all this extra meat out of the
way that we don’t want we’re working on this side a lot of times I’ll take a sharpie and
just right top on there so I know working the right side of the panel from
the beginning we’ll take this tape off now and you’ll
be able to see that scribe line that was left and you’ll see how nice and
straight back here and it is so we’re going to take our paper pattern where to
put it back on here we’ll work on the back side now we’re
going to put this over lay this on your marks we’re going to transfer over just with a
sharpie mark where we had to start cutting this paper we know all the
shrink is centralized in that neighborhood and right here so we know
we’re not going to need to do much shrinking past this area because the
paper did not have to be slit and brought over on itself in order to get
that to lay flat on the original panel so we know there’s almost no shrink in
this area it was just for and put it into the
panel in order to make the corner but as that corner comes around the bend and
material needs to be shrunk so we know that all the shrink is going to be
between there in this area and down here it’s all going to be between here and
here so we know and all the shrinking on this panel is
going to be in that corner there and that corner there so i’ll just put those
on with sharp because once we start pulling our first shrinks in that’s
going to leave a an obvious zone where we started shrinking we’ll just stay
within that area anywhere outside of where the the cuts in the paperwork we
know that area does not need any shrink so we won’t have to pull that material
together in order to get it lay flat and look smooth on the panel so now we have those areas mapped out we can go ahead and pull the tape off
which will reveal our scribe mark right now we have all our information
transferred onto those blank of steel we know exactly where to shrink where
the stretch where trim in order to make that panel as accurately as possible if
you didn’t make a paper pattern he didn’t all these marks on you start off
shaping metal aimlessly you wouldn’t know where your head and how much shrink
to put where where to stop shrinking where to start start stretching so with this roadmap on the blank of
steel it tells us everything we need to know
to make it accurate panel right the first time so i hope this lesson help
you guys out check me out Mike Phillips Phillips hot
rods and customs and diet on Pennsylvania check out eastwood.com for
all the products you need in order to make these patterns possible and all the
other products you need in order to restore your car yeah yeah